Salma Cassam Chenaï and Frédéric Thiry, winemakers

Photo Credit: Buvance

Salma Cassam ChenaI and FrEdEric Thiry

Le Bois Dieu | Semur-en-Brionnais | France

Le Bois Dieu was established by Salma Cassam Chenaï and Frédéric Thiry, who in 2015 moved to the commune of Semur-en-Brionnais, an hour west of Mâcon on the eastern Loire River, to restore an old agricultural estate and work with its plots of historic Gamay vines. These vines were once part of a vast 4,000-hectare vineyard, largely abandoned after the phylloxera crisis as the region shifted toward cattle farming. While this decline affected wine production in Brionnais, it left the soils largely untouched and free from chemicals, providing Salma and Frédéric with exceptional terroir to craft natural, expressive wines.

Salma and Frédéric met while traveling in Asia and, after returning to Europe together in 2002, developed a strong interest in natural wines, inspired by encounters with legendary Jura winemaker Pierre Overnoy and other pioneers. Frédéric’s passion for wine was influenced by his Burgundian grandfather, who introduced him to some of the region’s great estates at a young age. Salma, born in Madagascar, first experienced agricultural practices through the cultivation of spices and vanilla, which her brother Yoann now imports to Geneva. Both lived in Switzerland for a time, practising law in Vaud, but weekend trips to Burgundy sparked their love for Brionnais. Six years after relocating, Le Bois Dieu released its first wines in July 2021.

In addition to their own vineyard, Salma and Frédéric source fruit from friends in the area, particularly from Pierre Boyat. They favor carbonic and semi-carbonic maceration to create primary, fruit-driven wines in the “sur le fruit” style. To maintain this delicate expression, they avoid aggressive punch-downs and pump-overs, opting for gentle extraction methods. Fermentation and élevage take place in a combination of stainless steel, foudre, and amphora, depending on the cuvée, resulting in wines that highlight the purity, balance, and minerality of Brionnais Gamay.